Volume 7 Issue 2 (Spring 2014) “The past is never dead. It’s not even past.” ~William Faulkner Inescapable History This issue represents the 6th anniversary of The Hemlock; accordingly it seems appropriate that the theme of this issue is the ways that the past can intrude into the present. One of the central goals of the Environmental Focus Group has been to raise awareness of the rich history of central Pennsylvania. If you know where to look, traces of the past can be found everywhere in our town and our campus. April Events On Thursday, April 10, at 7:30 p.m., Joby Topper will be presenting a talk “Towers, Trees, and Traditions” that will discuss changes to the LHU campus over the years. The talk will be held in Rogers Gymnasium, the oldest building on campus. The event is free and open to the public. On Tuesday, April 22 (Earth Day) at 5:00 p.m. the Environmental Focus Group will dedicate the new Nature Trail. In the 1930s the LHU Naturalist Club developed a trail on the mountain behind campus. In April the trail will be restored and plaques will be installed that interpret the cultural and environmental history of the campus. Join us in front of Robinson as we reveal the interpretative plaques and walk the trail (1 ½ miles, about 40 minutes). The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 2 On Tuesday, April 22, at 7:00 p.m. the Environmental Focus Group and the Environmental Club will show the film Play Again in Greenburg Auditorium (Willis Building). Play Again is a documentary about teenagers who spend most of their days in front of computer screens. The movie “unplugs these teens and takes them on their first wilderness adventure – no electricity, no cell phone coverage, no virtual reality.” The event is free and open to the public. Normal Hill ~Joby Topper (LHU Library Director) As a youngster at Lock Haven’s summer wrestling camps of the early 1980s, I clearly remember jogging from Thomas Fieldhouse, around Rogers Gym, and up the 156 concrete steps from Robinson to McEntire Hall. These days, I can barely manage to walk up these steps without stopping to catch my breath. Sad, but true. Anyone who has ever lived in North, McEntire, High, or Gross Hall—whether as a student or, like me, as a summer camper—is familiar with the subject of my essay: Normal Hill. “Normal Hill” is so named for being the site of Lock Haven’s first Normal School (a school for the training of public school teachers). Completed in 1877, the original school building stood very close to where North Hall stands today. From the top of Normal Hill, students and faculty enjoyed a spectacular view of the city, the river, and the surrounding hills and valleys. They could also enjoy clean, cold water pumped from the old Wetzel Spring on the Glen Road side of Normal Hill up to a small reservoir that was located near the present site of McEntire Hall. (When it was discovered that the Wetzel Spring could not quite meet the demands of the school, water was pumped from a well on the river-side of the hill up to the reservoir to supplement the spring water supply.) The school was high above the flood plain, an important advantage in a river town like Lock Haven. It was also above the reach of “miasma,” The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 3 the fumes belched up from marshes and swamps, believed by many people to carry disease. The situation atop Normal Hill seemed ideal until December 9, 1888, when the Normal School was destroyed by fire. The fire company’s steam engine was unable to pump water from the pipes at the intersection of Fairview and Main to the top of Normal Hill with enough force to douse the flames. Fortunately the fire was slow-burning, which enabled firefighters to rescue all of the students and faculty and much of their personal property. The Fire of 1888 convinced the Normal School faculty and trustees to abandon the hill and re-build on lower ground where the school would be more accessible to fire engines, if the need should arise. The perceived threat of miasma, along with the notion that highlands were inherently healthier than lowlands, was fading into superstition by 1888 thanks mainly to German microbiologist Robert Koch, who provided compelling evidence during the 1880s to support the germ theory of disease. In April 1889, the trustees purchased three acres at the base of Normal Hill—the area now occupied by Rogers, Stevenson, Russell, and Sullivan—and chose a building site just above and to the west of the main path of flood waters. Dirt and rock were excavated from the base of the hill to create a large, level space on which to build the new school. Construction was completed in May 1890. The school’s water continued to come from the reservoir on Normal Hill, but, after 1893, the reservoir was no longer fed by the Wetzel Spring or by the riverside well. Between July and December of 1893, city water superintendent Charles F. Keller (father of Boyd R. Keller of Keller Reservoir fame) coordinated a massive public works project in which over six miles of new water pipe were laid from the McElhattan Spring (about nine miles east of Lock Haven) to various points in the city, to include the school reservoir. To this day, though the reservoir on Normal Hill no longer exists, the waters of the The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 4 McElhattan Gap feed Keller Reservoir and Ohl Reservoir, Lock Haven’s principal water supplies. Normal Hill at the turn of the century was only sparsely populated with small trees and shrubs. Lumbermen of the 1850s and 60s had stripped the hill of its tall healthy trees in the days before most people saw the wisdom in selective cutting and reforestation. But Normal Hill found a friend in Levi J. Ulmer. Ulmer, a professor of science and geography, organized the school’s first “Naturalist Club” in 1923. Ulmer and the students in the Naturalist Club planted thousands of trees on and around Normal Hill during the 1920s and 30s. They also blazed a Nature Trail on Normal Hill and around the larger adjoining hill that separates the Glen Road valley (the “boys’ glen”) from the valley now occupied by Lawrence Field and Jack Stadium (the “girls’ glen”). In 1937, the Club made the college woodlands an animal sanctuary and secured pledges of cooperation from local hunters. In December 1942, shortly after Ulmer died, President Richard T. Parsons named the campus woodlands “Ulmer Memorial Forest” in honor of Ulmer’s devotion to the enjoyment and preservation of Normal Hill and the surrounding hills and valleys. Normal Hill was used almost exclusively as a hiking and picnic area until 1939, when six tennis courts were built near the present site of North Hall. The courts were built by popular demand after the old tennis courts were removed in 1938 to make way for the construction of Thomas Fieldhouse. The pressing need for student housing during the 1950s and 60s led to the purchase of additional properties along North Fairview for the construction of Smith (1959-60) and Woolridge (1962-63). The college finally turned to Normal Hill when no more property was available for sale along North Fairview or Susquehanna. The first dormitory built on Normal Hill was North Hall (1965-67), which required the removal of the tennis courts. The old reservoir was filled-in and covered in November 1968 during construction of McEntire. High Hall was next (1970-71), followed by Gross (1973). The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 5 The new dorms and the accompanying network of paved roadways dramatically changed the look and feel of Normal Hill. Yet students, faculty, and local citizens continued to enjoy the hill’s trails and picnic spots. Athletes and ROTC trainees ran the old Nature Trail and created a few paths of their own. The faculty and staff of the Environmental Focus Group and the students of the Environmental Club have decided to restore the old Nature Trail. On Saturday, April 12th, we’ll begin cleaning up the woods on and around the trail and clearing away brush to make the trail more obvious to the casual hiker. We’ll also post signs along the trail indicating points of interest to biologists, geologists, historians, nature lovers, and casual hikers. Our goal is to entice you to climb those 156 steps from Robinson to McEntire and explore Normal Hill and the surrounding woods. Take a break from studying for exams or grading papers; it is well worth your time. Lock Haven a River Town Recently Downtown Lock Haven, Inc. and the Lock Haven City Council have agreed to seek a “River Town” designation from the Susquehanna Greenways Partnership. The goal of the partnership is to link the natural, cultural, historic, and recreational resources of the Susquehanna River. A River Town designation would open the door to grants and technical assistance to help the community connect to the river. On March 27, those interested in the River Town concept met in the Durwachter Alumni Center to brainstorm ways of integrating the river into the culture of the community. County Announces 175th Anniversary Celebrations: Let’s Party Like it’s 1839! ~Maria Boileau (Clinton County Director of Voter Registration and Elections) On June 21, 2014 Clinton County will officially celebrate its 175th anniversary, and the Clinton County Commissioners are excited about celebrating the rich heritage of Clinton County. Some of the many events scheduled throughout the year include the Best of Clinton County Summer Festival and Parade, a historic church tour sponsored by the Clinton County Historical Society, a historic train ride, a boat parade to coincide with the City’s The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 6 summer concert series and a number of existing events that could host anniversary themed celebrations. Community groups and organizations are encouraged to submit their 175 th Anniversary themed activities to the county for inclusion in the Anniversary Calendar. Throughout the year the county will be documenting the events and activities with photos and in November the Commissioners will present a commemorative book of the 175th year of Clinton County. “This is a great opportunity for students with an interest in history and photography to help document what is going on all over the county” explains Boileau. “ The 175th Celebration has a website at www.clintoncountypa.com/175. For more information please contact Maria Boileau at the Clinton County Voter Registration Office at 570-893-4019 or email 175@clintoncountypa.com. The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 7 The View from Route 11/15 ~Susan Rimby (Dean, College of Liberal Arts and Education ) Huck Finn commuter, I follow the river. I’d write a ballad if I were John Denver Of island-bound trees awash in fall colors, And once fertile fields now shorn for the winter, Their pumpkins and cornstalks displayed by road vendors. I squint in the sunshine that tickles the water And smile as I travel towards home and my lover. Observations from the Levee ~Susan Rimby (Dean, College of Liberal Arts and Education ) The leaves shine orange in the afternoon light. The water mirrors sky/tree/hill. Today, the Susquehanna is my bosom companion. The current paces me, The crisp breeze soothes me. The river winds toward where I want to go. Photo by John F. Katz The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 8 Trail Running: Exploring on Foot ~Ashley Moyer (LHU Recreation Management Major) The popularity of trail running has been growing in recent years, and it is noticeable even, and maybe especially, in our area around Lock Haven. Those mountains you see surrounding campus are the setting of many local races throughout the year, the most popular being the autumn Megatransect and the upcoming Hyner View Trail Challenge in April. These races are tough: leading participants over extremely rocky terrain, up ridiculously steep hills, through streams, and sometimes-diverse weather conditions. Why are so many people taking to the single-track? Surely, the reasons vary by person, but mostly we do it for the great community atmosphere, the desire to improve physically and mentally, and of course, the aesthetics of being outside in the natural environment. Trying to keep pace in our everyday lives with the world around us, we often forget about the exciting things right outside our doors. Trail running is an amazing chance to see and experience things for yourself, to experience what is real, not viewed on a screen. I find trail running to be an opportunity for exploration – traveling by foot to see things far from human touch. While out running, I have seen many extraordinary things over the last few years – deer, a mother bear and her cubs, and I have learned a great deal about various birds and their calls. I have also witnessed rare and unexpected sights, such as: a tiny Saw-Whet Owl startled out of his tree branch slumber to stare at me with wide eyes, a deer bounding down into the same hollow I’m running through and up the other side of the mountain with a coyote in hot pursuit, and the mountain goat standing proudly, high on a rocky Colorado mountaintop. Another great thing about trail running is that it is cheap, simple, and anyone can do it! There are no rules, few boundaries, and you are the only person setting the limits of your experience. All you need is comfortable clothing, a good pair of shoes, and a trail to follow. Running alone is a great opportunity to reconnect your thoughts and The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 9 recharge, or it can be bonding with a social group. The distance, location, and speed are of your choosing; there are so many places to see, and running takes you there faster! Lock Haven is a prime location for trail running. We have trails to the north at Hyner View State Park and to the south at R.B. Winter. However, my personal favorite is even closer, on public city lands, a place called Zindel Park in McElhatten. To get there, head north on 220 from Lock Haven, take the McElhatten exit and turn right at the stop sign. Follow straight onto Reservoir Road until reaching the parking area at the end. Many trails cover the mountains from here, many leading off the road that goes past the gate to Keller Reservoir and behind, but there is no map or trail signs. Do not be deterred! With a little exploration, you can discover the routes that link together and find all this area has to offer. I still Views from “Devil’s Den” in Zindel Park. have not discovered them all! Relationships and Resilience ~Danny Brumbaugh (LHU Social Work major) In Hermann Hesse’s novel Siddhartha, he speaks in great detail of the protagonist’s moment of Nirvana. Siddhartha sees himself and his life as a long and flowing river. Each person he meets, each moment, each celebration of joy, every life, every death, from the smallest microcosm to the largest macrocosm are a flowing part of the river of his existence. If it weren’t for the great relationships I have with my friends and family (which both are really the same as far as I am concerned), I wouldn’t have nearly as much of the strength as I do now. Late night talks, beers drunk together, miles traversed through the woods, crawls and climbs through caves, music played, and eye contact traded-these are just a few of the great moments I shared with friends and family over my winter break. These moments and people (much like the ice on the now frozen Susquehanna) are a huge part of my own personal tributary. Because of them my waters are far from still and for this I am thankful. The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 10 On a recent winter hike with two of my good friends, Dave and Grace, we had a moment of clarity and commonality, while discussing the existence of a craggy old elm tree. On a previous hike Dave pointed out that particular elm and asked his students if it was alive or dead. Some students said it was alive, and many said it was dead. After tallying up the vote, he asked the class “Why does it have to be either?” By this he was implying that though the tree appeared to be dying, it was in fact swarming with a million different insects and microscopic organisms. Just like Siddhartha’s river, it was continually flowing, perpetually living and dying at the same time. That was one resilient Elm. My resilience helps me to flow from one minute, one hour, one day, and one year to the next. I refuse to give up and choose the path of an empty, stale, existence. It is with these strengths that I write these words and breathe these breaths. Hemlock Hike: LHU Hiking in the 1920s ~Bob Myers A few months ago Joby Topper sent me an article entitled “Where Shall We Go for a Walk?” that had been published in the March 10, 1927 Normal Times. The article is clearly an ancestor of the Hemlock hikes since it describes six hikes that were popular among students at Central State Normal School in the 1920s. I thought it might be interesting to present one of these hikes, complete with annotations, especially since this hike overlaps with the new Nature Trail. The anonymous author begins by defining his audience. He scorns those who would hike merely for exercise, and explains that he writes for those who are “willing to go for a hike or a walk but don’t know where to go, and either from inability to ask questions, or fear of getting themselves lost . . . or from lack Ad from 1927 Normal Times of ability to make up their minds, don’t get started on that long thought of plan of exploring the country round about by the slow but certain method of perambulation.” He writes The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 11 for someone “who really likes to get away from rows of brick houses and pretend that he’s seeing the real country (he daren’t mind getting muddy by the way).” Given the changes in place names and geography, the first hike is the only one that I can recreate for modern readers with any certainty. The writer advises that this hike should be taken “before breakfast preferably.” The route and my annotations follow: Go up Girls’ Glen until you reach the Cottage, the first house on the right after you leave the Normal Then turn left and follow the path up over the hill. Girls’ Glen is the narrow valley that runs from Akeley to the football field (soon to be the return loop of the Nature Trail). In the 1920s Lusk Run Road ran along this path until it was moved to its current route in 1932. The Cottage must have been located just past Hubert Jack Stadium. The “path up over the hill” follows the saddle between the two hills, passing the site of the Naturalist Cabin that was built in 1941. By and by you will meet the road that goes up Boys’ Glen. When you reach this, turn left once more, follow the road until you see the home of Dr. Armstrong looming up before you. Boys’ Glen is the modern Glen Road. Dr. Dallas Armstrong served as college president from 1925-1937. His house was on Fairview Street where Ulmer Planetarium stands. If you prefer, when you come to a narrow grassy road that crosses a stone culvert, you may turn left across this, go up over the hill to the old reservoir and by going down either of two paths up there you may precipitate yourself into your own back door . If you want to go steep, take the one farther east. If you are not in such a hurry, take the one toward the west and dodge the briars. This likewise deposits you at the back door, or more specifically the tennis court back of the gym. The grassy road was probably near the current road that leads to McEntire. The old reservoir was at the top of Normal Hill, between McEntire and High halls (see Joby Topper’s article in this issue). The two paths would have led down the hill to the campus. The eastern path probably followed the current steps from North to Price. The western path probably followed the steps that now run from McEntire to Robinson. The gym is Rogers Gymnasium, the The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 12 oldest building on campus. The tennis courts were located where Robinson currently stands. As he concludes his description of this hike, the writer becomes rather poetic: “This is the simplest form of the walk that I have described to you. It is a walk that abounds in spirits and shades of the past, partly because you pass two cemeteries with another one out of sight over the hill to the right of you as you go down Boy’s Glen [Highland Cemetery], and partly because the place itself is haunted by the spirits of departed Normalites.” He notes the wildlife that might be seen--rabbits, groundhogs, and downy woodpeckers—and points out, “I would not be much surprised if you would meet a group of Nature Study people led by Mr. Ulmer, chasing to and fro trying to catch up with some songster in order to shoot him with their field-glasses.” Finally, he describes the view of the sunrise from Normal Hill: “First of all you may see the Normal, looking like an old castle from the back, then the town, river and the hills beyond. It is good to get out of bed in the morning during spring.” I couldn’t agree more. Arbor Day 1929 (Prof. Levi Ulmer in cap and glasses) Environmental Focus Group Bob Myers (Chair), Md. Khalequzzaman, Lenny Long, Jeff Walsh, Lee Putt, Ralph Harnishfeger, Barrie Overton, Todd Nesbitt, Sharon Stringer, Jamie Walker, Steve Guthrie, John Reid, Lynn Bruner, Elisabeth Lynch, Kevin Hamilton, Keith Roush, Steve Seiler, Elizabeth Gruber, Joby Topper, Ray Steele, Michael McSkimming, Mark Jones, Allison Fritts, Susan Rimby, Stephen Neun, and Scott Carnicom. The committee is charged with promoting and supporting activities, experiences, and structures that encourage students, faculty, and staff to develop a stronger sense of place for Lock The Hemlock 7.2 (Spring 2014), page 13 Haven University and central Pennsylvania. Such a sense of place involves a stewardship of natural resources (environmentalism), meaningful outdoor experiences, and appreciation for the heritage of the region.